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Jewelry
Crafting
Senior
Smith Apprentice Dirken
Summary: The 4 C's are Color, Clarity,
Cut, and Carat. The result of inspection is what decides
the order of the C word. There are many ways to cut and
set the stone to show off its best features or to camoflauge
flaws.
For More Info: www.gemstone.org
We all have
probably heard of the Four C's: Color, Clarity, Cut, Carat.
These are used to get the value of a stone. The beauty
of a stone is determined by the same C's but in different order:
Cut, Color, Clarity, Carat.
- Color is the body color
of the stone.
- Clarity is the degree of
flawlessness.
- Cut also includes the
proportion of the stone.
- Carat is what the weight
of the stone is.
When examining
a stone for value or beauty, one must keep in mind its faults.
To do so, the stone must be examined under excellent light from
many angles. Some of the common faults found in stones
are as follows:
|
Type of Flaw |
Description |
|
Chipped Culet |
(stone bottom
point) |
|
Fringed girdle |
Small radial
cracks penetrating the stone from the girdle |
|
Bearded girdle |
Similar, but
can be repaired by repolishing, without much loss in stone
weight |
|
Girdle too
thick |
Too much weight
will in girdle, so, for its weight, it will be smaller in diameter
than another stone of comparable weight. |
Common
cut process:
Put pointed
end of the diamond (let's say) against a turning wheel that held
another diamond, then grind off the point of the diamond, creating
a large, flat surface. This flat-top looks like squarish
shape and is called a table top.
|
Type of Cut |
Description |
|
Rose-cut |
Its base is
flat and its facets, which are in multiples of six, give it a
flower-like appearance like an opening rosebud.' |
|
Cushion cut |
Oval with squarish
corners. Crown is higher than the table facet and
much smaller in diameter. Culet was open instead of a point. |
|
Holder cut |
Higher crown,
small table-facet, and an open culet. Round in shape, crown
not as high nor table as small |
Common
settings:
|
Type of Setting |
Description |
|
Bezel |
Rim holds the
stone and completely surrounds gem. Bezels have straight
edges, scalloped edges, or can be molded into any shape to accommodate
the stone. The backs can be open or closed. Can make
stone look larger or can even conceal nicks or chips. |
|
Collet |
Like bezel,
but uses gold tubing (very rare and done by highly skilled masters) |
|
Prong |
4 or 6.
Can be pointed, rounded, flat or V shaped. |
|
Gypsy |
Metal at top
of ring (around stone) is much heavier than shank. The
stone is set flush into hole at top. |
|
Flat-top |
Faceted stone
is placed into a hole in the flat top of the metal and then held
in place by small chips of metal attached to stone's girdle.
Sometimes metal chips areworked in beads. |
|
Channel |
Into channel
with no metal separating them. |
|
Bar |
Like channel.
Circular band. Stones held by long thin bar instead of
prongs shared between two stones. |
|
Pave |
Numerous small
stones. Like paved with stones. |
|
Cluster |
One large stone
and several small accent stones. |
|